The Seventies birthed a new generation of surfers, with a
new language, new attitude and--with the advent of the short board--a new way
of surfing. Like Grannis in the decade before him, Divine captured the time in
a comprehensive, on-the-spot fashion. This was the decade of Hippies, long
hair, Mexican wedding shirts and bell bottoms. Santana, The Dead, Steppenwolf
and the Stones were on the stereo, hallucinogenic drugs and free love were
everywhere and Vietnam had left an entire generation of disillusioned youth.
And for those surfers making (or non-making) a life for themselves on the
swells on the North Shore, that culture was apparent, but with one
distinguishing factor: their prized possessions were their garage-made
surfboards all lined up in the side yard. That was what mattered most.
According to Divine, "It was all about the karma you had,
that and going with the flow. We really believed that when the surf was on
that's what it was all about: good vibes actually caused good waves to happen.
I surfed first and then shot photos. As things got more serious, I shot first
and surfed later."
Photographing the second generation of surfers, Divine
impressively captures the feeling of being on the beach during its most
creative era and at the inception of a subculture too large and photogenic to
stay down long.
Growing up in La Jolla, Jeff Divine began taking pictures of
fellow surfers in his hometown during the 1960s and got to know the original
alternative sport before the mainstream media blew it into the commercial
kingdom it has now come to be. His photo focus took him into a staff position
in 1971 with Surfer Magazine, where he would begin the first of some 35 annual
trips to the North Shore. In 1981, Divine would become the Photo Editor of the
magazine, a position he held for the next 16 years. Today, Divine is the Photo
Editor at The Surfer's Journal and continues to contribute to Surfer.
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